On some cars you have to loosen the steering-
U-clamp bolts and move the rack, to prevent damage to the lower-wishbone
bolts and the rack gaiters.
On many cars the
is fitted inside the
spring, and must be removed. To remove, place a jack beneath the wheel
and raise it far enough to
the loading on the damper.
Release the upper and lower damper mountings and remove the damper through the hole in the lower wishbone. Lower and remove the jack.
clamps opposite to each other on the coils. Tighten them to compress the spring.
Remove the locking pin (if fitted) and the nut from the ball joint at the end of the lower wishbone, where it is connected to the steering swivel member. Separate the joint.
Tie up the upper wishbone and the steering swivel member (also called the stub axle). Carefully drive out the fulcrum bolt or bolts from the inner end of the wishbone, using a drift of slightly smaller diameter.
Take a note of the way these bolts are fitted, and also of any rubber insulators or cups fitted at the top of the spring, to aid reassembly.
Unscrew the spring compressor clamps a little at a time on each side to release the tension.
When all the tension in the spring has been released, remove the spring from the lower wishbone.
Fitting the new spring to the wishbone
The top coil of the new spring may be different in shape from the bottom coil. Be sure you insert it right side up.
Compress the new spring with the spring compressor clamps, and place it on the lower wishbone. Make sure the bottom of the spring is seated properly. Reconnect the lower-wishbone ball joint to the stub axle, screwing the nut until finger tight.
Make sure the top of the spring is seated properly and that any rubber cups or insulators have been properly inserted. Reconnect the inner ends of the wishbone with the fulcrum bolt(s).
The wishbone will be easier to refit if the bushes are smeared with
jelly. (Do not tighten the fulcrum bolts fully until the car has been lowered to the
at a later stage when its weight is on all four wheels.)
Remove the spring compressor clamps carefully. Reconnect the track rod and ball joint and the anti-roll bar or
, if fitted.
If necessary, retighten the steering-rack U-clamp bolts and replace the damper inside the spring.
Make sure that all nuts and bolts are fitted correctly and tightened to the correct
as recommended by the car maker. Consult a service manual for the car, or your local dealer if necessary.
Use new split pins to lock the ball-joint retaining nuts in place.
Stop wasting time on YouTube and get serious!
The Ultimate Car Mechanics video course
Learn everything about modern cars from our new video series.
There are two main types of
: static and dynamic. A static oil
between two non-moving parts, a dynamic oil seal between a stationary part and a moving one. Most oil seals are made of synthetic rubber.
The oil in your
needs to be kept at an optimum temperature so it can
still carry heat away from the engine and lubricate the moving parts properly.
If the temperature of the oil is allowed to rise, the oil will become too thin
to lubricate properly and too hot to disperse heat, and there will be a risk of
damage to the engine.